When we told our friends in Vancouver that we were moving to Whitehorse, the reactions were immediate. On one hand, we had our expatriate and traveller friends whose eyes were shining with envy, on the other hand, we had the pure Vancouverites who asked us with pity - even fear - if it was for work and how we were living with this horrible news (I'm not exaggerating).
Adored by some, feared by others, the Yukon rarely leaves anyone indifferent (as long as they know it exists, of course). So, do we eat badly in the Yukon? Is it dark all the time? Does it have Wi-Fi? In this article, I'll sort out the truth and beat up three myths about the Yukon.
Myth #1: Yukon food is bad
"The Yukon? You'll eat so badly." Go figure, this was the comment we heard most often in Vancouver before we left. We were told that a single bag of chips cost $10, that there was no fruit, no vegetables, that the restaurants were horrible. Well. It seems that the people who told us this have never been to Whitehorse. It is a very "normal" city. Most of the major retailers are there: Superstore, Save-On-Foods, Independent, Walmart, and the prices are exactly the same as in Vancouver.
There are also a few grocery stores that specialize in healthy and organic food, such as Riverside Grocery, or in meats and delicatessen, such as The Deli. There is a delicious bakery, Alpine Bakery, which offers weekly organic fruit and vegetable baskets. The Gourmet offers a wide selection of French and European products, while Cultured Fine Cheese specializes in quality cheeses.
There are some very good restaurants too! Sure, it's not Vancouver, let alone Montreal or Paris, but there's something for everyone with nearly 70 addresses listed on TripAdvisor. Whether you're looking for a good burger in a bar, a ramen to go, a family-style Mexican cuisine or a refined culinary experience, you'll find what you're looking for.
Myth #2: It's dark and cold. All the time. Nothing grows. Everyone dies.
"You'll be so cold! Are you equipped? What are you going to do in the winter?" For some people, the Yukon is a survivalist village, lost on the ice floe, trapped in an apocalyptic polar space-time. Well, let's face it: it's not warm in winter. Temperatures sometimes go down to -40°. Not -40° felt. A real -40°. The one that allows you to throw boiling water in the air and see it evaporate before touching the ground. The one that freezes your eyelashes and hair instantly.
So yes, it's cold. But, strangely enough... it's fine! A real "it's fine", as stated by a city girl who loves hot weather. It is dry, which makes the cold bearable. I was colder in Montreal by -17° than in Whitehorse by -30°. And, yes, we are equipped: down jackets, ski pants, mittens, under-layers in merino. This allows us to do a lot of activities even in the middle of winter: snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, snowboarding, dog sledding, etc. Concerning the darkness: yes, it is true that the days are (very) short in winter. In December, for example, the sun rises around 9:45 am and sets at 3:45 pm. But the light is absolutely magical! Everything is bathed in pink, orange and red.
And then... Winter lasts only for winter. When I first came to the Yukon in the fall, people kept telling me, "Oh, when you see summer in the Yukon, you won't want to leave." It's true. By May, the mountains are covered with flowers, the rivers are flowing, and the chirping of birds replaces the silence. In June, the sun doesn't really set anymore. You can feel the effervescence taking over the city, everyone is full of energy. Do you want to go for a 20 kilometer walk after work? It is possible! In July and August, temperatures rise up to 25°, offering beautiful and hot days.
Myth #3: Professionally, it's bad. There's not even Wi-Fi!
I need to clarify this quickly: there is Wi-Fi in Whitehorse, 4G, all that. Everything is fine. Whitehorse is a normal city (I already said that, but I'll repeat it to be sure). Well, it's true that it gets a bit more difficult if you go out of the city. But a priori, to work, you will be in the city center and connected to the modern world.
And this is definitely not the worst place to work! Canada's North is a growing region, especially in the tourism and construction sectors. The Yukon has the lowest unemployment rate and the highest labor force participation rate in Canada. Of course, it all depends on your field: if you work in a high-tech sector, it will be less easy. Whitehorse is still a small town. But this "village" aspect can have real advantages: you will easily find people ready to help you get a job or start your business.
So now… If you have to move to Whitehorse for work, and your friends look at you with pity, you'll know what to say to them!